Quaint, friendly and beautiful are just some of the words that come to mind when thinking of Capurganá and for good reason. Capurganá is a remote village in North Colombia, located just over the border from Panama. It is completely car-free and only accessible by plane or boat, giving it the feel of an island. We visited Capurganá at the end of our San Blas Adventure and it is one of our favourite locations of our whole trip.
Mural in Capurgana
How to get to Capurganá
We reached Capurganá from Panama via San Blas Adventures. You can also arrive here by airplane from Medellin (~$150) or by boat from Necoclí (~55,000 COP, 1.5 hours).
Where to stay
When we arrived in Capurganá it was very, very busy. The reason for this was that the Colombia to Panama San Blas Adventures trip had been delayed and so there were more tourists than normal in the village. For that reason we stayed in Hotel el Uvito for our first night. The double room was $20 but was quite basic, there was no water from the sink and the internet didn’t reach our room. We ended up moving to Hostal Capurganá after that which was $30 per night including breakfast. This hostal was much more comfortable and we highly recommend it!
What to do
Capurganá has got a surprising amount of activities to do, these are just some of the ones we choose:
Walk to La Coquerita
The walk to La Coquerita is along the coast
La Coquerita are two man made pools located by the ocean, one is freshwater, the other is salt water. Entrance is 3,000 COP per person. In truth the pools themselves are not why La Coquerita is on this list. It is the walk to La Coquerita that makes it special. You walk along the coast, looking at the baby blue Caribbean sea and watching the rough sea waves crash against the rocks. It is truly remarkable! Ask in your hostel for the way to La Coquerita, it is a straightforward walk!
With some rough seas
And beautiful water
Check it out!
Walk to La Miel, Panama
A map of the walk to La Miel, up and down…
This is the absolute highlight of Capurganá and is a reason in itself to visit the village. Walk to the soccer pitch in Capurganá and ask a local for the way to La Miel. When you start the hike you will be in deep lush rainforest. The sounds of tropical birds are everywhere and if you are lucky you might just spot one! You have to hike up a hill and when you reach the top you will get a great viewpoint of Sapzurro and Capurganá. From here you hike downwards until you reach the town and beach of Sapzurro (a highlight in its own right). To get to La Miel, walk past the church and up the hundreds of steps until you reach the border with Panama. When we got here there were no immigration officers but we found them in La Miel town itself. Just present you passport and that is it, there is no need for a stamp! La Miel beach is nice to relax on, although it didn’t look overly safe to swim in. It is amazing that you can relax on a Panamanian beach on a day trip from Colombia! This hike takes around 2 hours and was relatively easy in dry season, but we can imagine it would get muddy in wet season. There was a lot of building work going on when we did this walk in February 2018, it looked like they were getting ready to add entrance and exit posts, so maybe there will be a fee in the future!
There are some lovely wooden walkways
Helpful for up and downhill!
The view of Capurgana from the viewpoint
And the view of Sapzurro
The stairs leading to La Miel and Panama
La Miel beach
Sapzurro is a neighbouring village to Capurganá and can be reached either via a hike (La Miel hike above), or you can get a boat for 5,000COP each. Sapzurro beach is beautiful and alot quieter than Capurganá. You can easily swim and relax here for the day in the beautiful Caribbean sea. Don’t forget to get an ice cream of the old lady with the cart, you cant miss her in Sapzurro and they only cost 3,000COP!
Sapzurro beach, its amazing!!