San Agustin, a small town located in the department of Huila, was one of our last stops in Colombia. It is surrounded by rolling hills and mountains. The land is covered with patchwork farms growing coffee, maize, plantain and a multiple of other vegetables. There seems to be even more coffee plantations here in comparison to the coffee region. It’s beautiful to look at and it’s probably the most scenic we’ve experienced.

Some of the stunning views around San Agustin

Our main reason for visiting San Agustin was to visit the archaeological sites which are home to many rock statues. The information about the people who once lived here is very limited and the questions on their origin, who they were and what happened to them still remain. It’s all very intriguing. The area that the statues can be found is very vast which really does make you ponder about what life must have been like back then. They went to great lengths to honour their dead. It really is a pity about the grave robbers who ruined so many tombs and burial sites.

One of the statues that make San Agustin so famous

We did the three tours in San Agustin; DIY tour to San Agustin Archaeological Park, Horse Riding tour and the Jeep tour. So keep reading for our Ultimate Guide to San Agustin.

If you are short on time, our recommendation is to visit the San Agustin park and do the Horse Riding tour. These can both be done on the same day if you get up early.

Where we stayed

We spent 5 nights in Casa de Nelly where we enjoyed the peace and quiet, the large open fire and their two dogs (Zed and the little huskie Lila). 5 nights is too long but one day was set aside for the semi-final Liverpool versus Roma, and the second free day we relaxed.

San Agustin Archaeological Park

The walk from Casa de Nelly to the park took about 30mins (or 50mins from town) but more or less uphill! We arrived around 8.30am and had the park to ourselves. It costs 25,000 COP or 10,000 COP for student card holders to enter. This charge also covers entrance to the site Isnos (Alto de los Idolos and las Piedras). But it must be used within 2 consecutive days. You receive a passport with a map and more information in Spanish about the sites.

The statues are so detailed and each one is different

In the park there are no/very limited English descriptions about the statues or burial tombs, and only a very small introduction on each area so you need to either use your imagination or hire a guide.

The highlight for me was the river bed with human and animal features sculpted into the rock, La Fuente de Lavapatas. Some water from the river was diverted into this area creating a small stream which flows through the decorated stone. It is believed to have been used as part of spiritual rituals.

Alan taking a closer look

There are lots of different statues and tombs in this park and a small museum which has some English translated information. We spent about 3 hours in total visiting the park, the forest of statues and the museum.

Horse Riding (Cablegatas) Tour

We hadn’t planned on doing the Horse Riding tour due to a mixture of fear and animal welfare concern. After talking to Cristian in the Tourism Info (Tour Maciza, located in the main square) and seeing the horses we both changed our minds and we are so glad we did. At half 2 in the afternoon we were up on our trusty stallions Negra and Cableza ready to visit some more statues and tombs. As there was no group, it cost us 60,000 COP each but it was private. For groups, 3 or more, it costs 45,000 COP.

Seasoned horse riders…

We visited 3 sites, El Tablón, La Chaquira, and La Pelota / El Purutal which are in the same location and cost 5,000 COP additionally to enter. Our favourites were La Chaquira, figure overlooking the Magdalena river, and El Purutal which hosts the only two colourful statues found.

La Chaquira – spot the face in the rock

The coloured statue

It was a lot of fun on the horses too, strolling and galloping without warning with the occasional fart at times. Most of all we enjoyed admiring landscapes and scenery of this beautiful area. The tour was in Spanish but we could understand the majority of it. It marks Alan’s first horse riding experience and what a place to pop the cherry!

Thankfully we didn’t have to walk through this path!

Alan galloping away

Jeep Tour

To visit the other sites of interest, the best way to do this is by jeep. We organised this with Christian also. It cost 40,000 COP pp. We were collected at 9am from our casa and started off on the journey. There were 8 in the group.

The first stop was Estrecho de Madalena where the forceful Magdalena river narrows to 2m in width but 18m in depth. As we had drove across this river in the North of Colombia where it was pretty wide, it was amazing seeing it like this. Next was Obando (3,000 COP to enter) however it was closed for restoration works.

The narrowest part of the Magdalena river

After some more driving we arrived at Alto de los Idolos where there were lots of tombs, one with the lid visible, and a very tall statue standing at nearly 15 feet. After lunch (8,000COP for menu del dia) we headed to the second highest waterfall in Colombia, Salto Bordones. It was difficult to see the entirety of it due to trees and it being so high at 400m.

The tall statue at Alto de los Idolos

Alto de las Piedras was the last archaeological site. Here we saw the pregnant statue and the animal\man statue. For the final stop we visited the waterfall of Salto Mortiño. We paid 2,000 COP as the entrance is on private land. They had lulo growing on the farm so we had to try some lulo juice. And while we drank we were kept entertained by their pet puppy and kitten. We arrived back in San Agustin around half 5.

Salto Mortiño Waterfall

Overall this tour was good especially for the price but only if you don’t mind all the driving around.

Food

We mostly cooked ourselves but we did venture out for dinner once or twice. Humus sapiens is an Arabic type restaurant which is really tasty but portions are a tad on the small side. Arlequin is vegetarian and has a vegetarian menu del dia, sushi and some nice veggie burgers.

The main park in San Agustin

Any questions on the above tours? We’d be happy to answer! Comment below.

Next up is Ipales and then Ecuador!!! Country 10. But not before we clear the landslide out of the path along the trampoline road of death.