A perfect day trip from Filandia or Salento is a hike through Cocora Valley. This is an amazing valley with lush greenery, stark mountains and the world’s tallest palm trees. The wax palms can sometimes reach a staggering 60 meters in height and are also Colombia ‘s national tree. Here is our one stop guide for hiking the Cocora Valley.

The amazing palm trees!

One stop guide for hiking the Cocora Valley

How to get to and from Cocora Valley

Filandia to Salento

From Filandia to Salento, take a willy (jeep) from the square (along carrera 6). It costs 5,000 COP and the first one leaves at 8.30am. After about 40mins you arrive in Salento. Ask your hostel for more times but our recommendation is go for the willy at 8.30am.

Salento to Cocora Valley

The willys also leave from the main square in Salento and cost 4,000 COP per person to get to Cocora valley. Look for the jeeps parked and a small information/ticket desk. Check out picture below for times.

How amazing are they?

Cocora Valley to Salento

After the hike there will be jeeps available in the car park to bring you back to Salento. You may have to wait until it is full but it shouldn’t be too long as it is a busy place.

Salento to Filanda

The willys to Filandia leave from the same area in the main square as above. The last willy back to Filandia is at 6pm. Check out picture below for more times.

The willy jeep times between Salento and Filandia

Hiking Routes

There are two routes a) short 2-3 hours or b) long 5-6 hours. Both cost the same at 3000 COP.

The miradors are a good spot for a break!

With the long route, you can go in either direction – anti\clockwise. Once dropped off at the parking lot walk up until you reach a small booth to the right. This is the entrance for the short and long clockwise route. If you continue walking past the entrance and end up going downhill and finding a river, you’ve gone too far. We learn things the hard way!

Short Route Loop

This route is all about seeing and enjoying being up close to the palm trees. Walk up to the entrance and go right after paying. There is a track that will bring you up around the hill. There are 2 miradors where you can get great shots of the palm trees along the valleys. After the second mirador take a left on the dirt track which will bring you back to the entrance. It is a pretty straight forward loop.

See the palm trees quick on the short route

Long Route

There are two options here in terms of direction. For a slightly easier route take the clockwise direction. But if you want to finish at the palm trees, and are up for a slightly harder hike go the anti-clockwise direction. The highest point of this route is 2,860m.

Clockwise direction

After struggling to find the start for the anti-clockwise direction, we ended up going this way. This route is easier as the incline is not as steep. To follow this route, pay at the main entrance and go left. You will pass both miradors on the way so if you want close and personal pictures with the palm trees now is your chance to take them.

The beginning of the clockwise direction – see the palm trees first!

Once you arrive at the Finca de Montaña, after a pretty boring walk, you have completed all the climbing for the day (unless you visit the hummingbird house later on, which we didn’t). You can have a break and refuel with drinks before beginning the descent. The decline is mostly in forest and there are small streams to cross so maybe hiking shoes are more suitable as it can be slippy.

Adventurous bridges to cross!

Continue walking until you come to a junction. There is a sign for Los Nevados and Acaime la Casa de los Colibris (hummingbirds). If you go straight this will take you to the hummingbird house (5,000 COP to enter, approx. 30mins walking) you will need to double back on yourself to continue the loop. Go right to continue the trail loop. This is where it gets adventurous with lots of tomb raider style bridges to cross and more streams to wander your way through.

Spot the palm trees again at the end!

You finish with a walk through meadows gazing up to admire all the palm trees along the side of the valley you just walked through. It is a pretty spectacular sight.

Anti-clockwise direction

After leaving the car-park, walk up a few meters and there is a lane on the right which is the start for this route. It is the official start for Los Nevados so look for the sign for this. Picture below may help. If you walk as far as the entrance where you have to pay, you have gone too far.

This is the start of the anti clockwise route – look out for it!

This is the reverse as above; meadows, tomb-raider style bridges, go left at T-junction to continue the loop (right to visit hummingbirds), muddy incline, finca, descent and palm trees!

Start with adventure on the anti clockwise route!

After the hike head to the car park to find a jeep back to Salento.

After the hike

Spend a few hours wandering around Salento which is just as bright and colourful as Filandia. We enjoyed a coffee and cake, and walked (slowly) up to a mirador for a view over Salento. There were some pretty colourful steps along the way. We got the last willy back to Filandia at 6pm.

Views from the car park

Tips

• Bring at least 1L of water, some snacks, sunscreen and a rain jacket. Basically be prepared for all types of weather.
• Footwear – we both wore our hiking boots and we were happy we did after the streams and mud we encountered. Once again it depends on the time of year, maybe it is less wet in dry season and normal runners are ok. We did the hike in April.
• Go early in the morning to try beat the clouds and crowds.